![]() If everything is coated in streaky brown smudges, though.you might want to take a pass. If everything is nice and shiny and pristine, that's good. To avoid this: when you look at a cassette deck, the very first thing you need to check are the heads and the capstan, which is the spindle that moves the tape along the headstack. ![]() So the biggest risk in looking at used cassette decks is going to stem from damage to the heads by users who didn't bother to properly maintain their gear. Not only that, but some of that metal oxide can wear off onto various surfaces that come into contact with said moving tape, and you can actually SEE where this is going on if it's left uncleaned for a long time. And like anything in contact with moving bits of metal over the span of years, you're going to be dealing with wear. So, how to pick a USED deck, then? Well, let's explain a few things.įirst of all, remember that cassette decks function by having their tape heads in direct contact with moving tape media, which basically consists of extremely fine metal bits coated onto plastic (usually either mylar or polyester). And you WANT quality playing back your valuable vapor on a POS crackerbox is eventually going to damage your tape, which isn't a good thing. Plus, TASCAM is reliable shit this is basically a studio-grade deck. And sure, it's a cool $500 on the street, but with that you get a dual-transport dubbing deck with pitch control, USB output (which can go direct to a thumb drive), ability to record Type I, II, and IV tapes, but Dolby only on playback, which is a bit odd. While there's a lot of vaporwave coming out on cassette these days, cassette decks themselves are almost extinct critters about the only one worth having that's still in production that I know of is the TASCAM 202 MkVII.
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